Journeying Back in Time: Trekking Through the Unspoiled Beauty of Kudremukh

As I sit here and traverse the corridors of time through my memories, I’m swept away by the nostalgia of those trekking adventures from two decades ago in the enchanting Chikkamagalur district. Kudremukh, with its Netravati River and the iconic Kudremukh peak, was a hidden treasure in those days, virtually untouched by the throngs of tourists that now flock to it. Oh, how the world has transformed.

The Kudremukh Range, aptly named for its resemblance to a horse’s face, is a breathtaking expanse of hills that gaze upon the Arabian Sea. These hills are connected by deep valleys and sheer cliffs, forming a landscape that’s been a navigational landmark for sailors along the western coast for more than two millennia. In the past, Kudremukh remained hidden from the prying eyes of tourists, making it a paradise for trekkers. Besides the main trek to Kuduremukha Peak, there were other trails to explore, like Kurinjal Peak, Gangadikal Peak, Seethabumi Peak, Valikunda, and Narasimha Parvatha. It was a wonderland of lush green forests, winding rivers, grassy slopes, captivating waterfalls, hidden caves, and ancient ruins waiting to be discovered with each trek. The best time to visit was after the monsoon, when the entire landscape was painted in vibrant shades of green, and the rivers, streams, and waterfalls like Kadambi and Hanuman Gundi Falls were at their majestic best. Ganga Moola, a serene place nestled within the Bhagawathi forest, marked the origin of three rivers – Tunga, Bhadra, and Netravati. Here, a shrine to Goddess Bhagavathi and a 1.8-meter-high Varaha image inside a cave were the cherished attractions.

Kudremukh National Park spread across 600.57 square kilometers in Chikkamagaluru and Dakshina Kannada districts, was a sanctuary for a diverse range of wildlife. Leopards, Malabar giant squirrels, sloth bears, gaurs, sambar deer, jackals, mongooses, tigers, wild dogs, langurs, porcupines, spotted deer, barking deer, and giant flying squirrels thrived within its boundaries. The park was also a haven for birdwatchers, offering glimpses of the Malabar trogon, Malabar whistling thrush, and the imperial pigeon.

At an elevation of 1892 meters, Kuduremukh proudly held the title of being the second-highest peak in Karnataka, just after Mullayyanagiri. Its rich biodiversity earned it a place among the 34 biological hotspots of the world. Kudremukh wasn’t just a trekking paradise; it was a testament to nature’s grandeur.

Kudremukh Township, once a thriving iron ore mining town, was home to the government-operated Kudremukh Iron Ore Company Ltd. (KIOCL). However, for us, it was the starting point of our adventurous treks.

In those days, the concept of homestays was virtually non-existent, and the sight of hordes of trekkers was rare. A mere 500 brave souls would venture to climb Kudremukh in a year, and the locals knew each of us by name. We were mostly groups from Bengaluru, Mysuru, Tumkur, and Mangaluru, bound by our love for exploration.

Our journey began with a ride on a red ordinary bus to Dharmasthala. Along the way, we’d make a pit stop to take a refreshing dip in the Netravathi River and seek the blessings of the Dharmasthala deity. From there, we’d embark on our trekking adventure, setting our sights on the Jamalabadh fort, where we’d spend the night at the Navur forest office or rest house.

The next day marked the beginning of our arduous trek, a 16-kilometer hike to the Lobo house, with our trusty but heavy backpacks in tow. Our supplies were basic – ration, vessels, kerosene stoves – and our equipment was far from professional. We’d rent rucksacks from GETHNAA, don jungle boots purchased from Army stores or Bata, and wield torches with hefty batteries and bulbs. Those boots, with their rubber soles, left our feet scorched by evening, but the promise of adventure propelled us forward.

The trek was a test of teamwork. Each of us had a role to play, from cleaning the campsite to chopping vegetables, washing dishes, fetching water, and cooking. The camaraderie that blossomed from these shared responsibilities was a treasure in itself.

After reaching the Lobo house or occasionally camping near the abandoned church close to the Kudremukh peak, we’d rise early to conquer the summit. It took us a mere 2.5 to 3 hours to ascend, fueled by a simple breakfast. We’d descend by lunchtime and return to Lobo’s house for more communal cooking, laughter, and stories by the campfire.

But our adventure didn’t conclude there. We’d trek another 14 kilometers, this time without our burdensome backpacks, heading to Baleghal. From there, we’d make our way to the Horanadu temple for a well-deserved bath and darshan. After savoring the prasadam, we’d board an overnight bus back to Bengaluru, our hearts brimming with memories of the rugged beauty and the camaraderie forged during those unforgettable treks.

Today, as I see the masses converging on Kudremukh, I can’t help but feel a pang of nostalgia for those simpler, quieter times when it was just us and the untamed mountains, a tapestry of nature’s wonders unfurling before us. The transition from those multi-day treks to the expedited two-day trips may have changed the landscape, but the memories etched in my heart remain as vivid as ever.

In the present day, hundreds of operators and market aggregators cater to these destinations, offering a range of high-quality homestays for a mid to high-budget travelers seeking a comfortable experience. While this has ushered in sustainable tourism, it has also given rise to concerns of over-tourism and its potential threat to the local wildlife.

Kudremukh’s neighboring tourist destinations, such as the Kalasha temple, Sringeri, Agumbe, Karkala, Mangaluru, and the Balehonnur tea estates, have also gained popularity. The Karnataka Eco-Tourism Board and the local forest department are making commendable efforts to protect these wilderness areas. However, some locals voice their discontent over the hefty forest entry fees imposed on trekkers.

Despite these changes, one charming detail stands out in my memories—the small water tank adjacent to Suresh’s house, which had transformed into a makeshift waterfall. It offered weary trekkers a tranquil spot to relax and rejuvenate, a testament to the resilience of nature and the enduring allure of Kudremukh.

In the end, the evolution of Kudremukh from a secluded wilderness to a more accessible adventure destination serves as a reflection of the ever-changing times. But the soul of Kudremukh, with its pristine beauty and the indomitable spirit of adventure, remains eternal.

Reflecting on the Unforeseen Challenges of Kudremukh Treks

1. A memorable incident during our Kudremukh trek involved an asthmatic individual who had forgotten his inhaler. In the year 2000, this was still a relatively new medical emergency, and we had to navigate the situation with limited resources.
2. Another unforgettable moment occurred while our participants were enjoying themselves near the beautiful Somavathi Waterfalls, next to Suresh’s house. Suddenly, a team of police officers arrived, armed and ready. They arrested our group and brought us to the police station for questioning. Thanks to some influential connections, we were eventually released.
3. Throughout our treks, there were instances where some participants found it challenging to carry their heavy backpacks. In those moments, we gladly shouldered their burdens. We also encountered tiredness, swollen legs, and ankles among our fellow trekkers. These situations tested our teamwork and camaraderie.

These are just a few of the countless incidents we faced during our Kudremukh treks. Each challenge brought us closer together and enriched our adventurous memories.”